Archive for the ‘Argentine Customs and Culture’ Category

Argentina’s football league: the beginning of 2012 season

Monday, February 6, 2012 7:03

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Riquelme raises Champion Cl 300x167 Argentina’s football league: the beginning of 2012 season

The passion for the Argentine football is one of the largest in the world, and on February 10 street corners and stadiums will be crowded due to the beginning of the second part of the national championship.

The Argentine national championship is divided into two: Apertura (opening), which happens in the second half of each year and Clausura (closing), which runs from February to July. Yes, the names seem to be reversed, but still: it is true.

Boca Juniors was the last champion in December and it has a guaranteed spot in the 2012 Copa Libertadores, the South American version of the Champions League, the winner of this cup will receive spot in the FIFA Club World Cup.

River Plate, Boca’s biggest rival, continues playing the second division, known as First National B, since the team was relegated last year for the first time in 110 years. The series B, has only one tournament per year. It began in August last year and ends in June 2012.

The system of dispute Series A and B look a little different, but they have similarities: both are 20 teams and the seasons begin and end on dates close. What changes is that in the first division, there are two championships (single round-robin, with 19 matches) and the Series B, is only one a single-season double round-robin format, totaling 38 games.

La Bombonera 300x227 Argentina’s football league: the beginning of 2012 season

If you are in Buenos Aires next week, there are two good options for matches to watch and to receive an understanding of the love for the Argentine football: the first is the match between Boca Juniors and Olympus, happening on February the 10th (friday) at the famous La Bombonera.  There is a possibility to go with Expanish in a special area, with transportation, beer and pizza included. Another match that happens in the capital Buenos Aires is between Atletico Rafaela and Banfield at Monumental Nuevo – the River Plate stadium, February the 12th (Sunday).

Throughout the year, we promote tours for the games of the best teams, then, with the exception of January, you can live the big excitement of Argentine football.

Quick Facts

  • The tournament begins on February 10 and ends on June 24 and will have 190 matches
  • Boca Juniors won the Apertura last tournament (in December) with five rounds of anticipation and was unbeaten during the season (12 wins and 7 draws)
  • The top scorer of the season was Ruben Ramirez (Godoy Cruz team) with 12 goals
  • There is a possibly that in the second half of 2012, the first division will also have one championship per season
  • The games are broadcast on TV Publica, the TV channel of the national government and also on cable TV stations

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Going out as a woman in Buenos Aires: How to handle the machistas

Monday, January 16, 2012 15:08

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Argentina may have elected a female president in 2007, but the inauguration of Christina Fernandez de Kirchner into Argentina’s highest office didn’t exactly ring the death toll for Latin machismo within the country. While we’re not exactly living in the dark ages here, machismo is still alive and well.

My good friend Merriam Webster defines machismo as a strong sense of masculine pride, or an exaggerated masculitiny. However, this is one of those words that carries a much heavier load than its literal meaning, and it can even mean different things to different people and within different regional contexts. Personally, when I think of machismo, I think of the prideful male ego that should never be bruised and a stubborn and unbending insistence on traditional gender roles.

One of the most prominent ways that machismo manifests itself in everyday life is through the piropo, which is actually a pretty difficult term to define. Depending on who you are talking to, a piropo can be a compliment directed at a charming young lady on the streets or it can be a direct form of street harrasment. While I’m not going to wax poetic on the political implications of this form of “flirtation”, I would like to offer some advice and experience on how to survive on the streets to my fellow females who plan on spending some time in Buenos Aires.

Piropo1 Going out as a woman in Buenos Aires: How to handle the machistas

 1.     Don’t take it personally: The piropo is not about you! If some wannabe alpha male decides to affirm his masculinity by throwing out some idiotic comment about your appearance, it does not mean that you have done something wrong! Don’t think that you dressed too provocatively or walked in a way that invited the comment, because you didn’t. I was once walking down the street in winter, minding my own business, when a man decided to yell out “Ay, mami, ¿cuánto cuesta?” which basically translates to, “Hey babe, how much?”. Was I wearing a mini skirt, tank top and stripper heels when he decided to inquire about my hourly price? Not even close, it was cold outside! I was bundled up in jeans, flat boots, a sweater, scarf and a winter coat. I even had my school books in my hand. I looked more like Laura Ingall than Jessica Rabbit. The bottom line is, the kind of man that catcalls at a random woman will catcall at any random woman so don’t blame yourself.

2.     Don’t make eye contact: The machista has a big ego, so if you look him in the eye after he just told you that you he wants marry you and build you a castle to live in together, his exaggerated sense of male confidence is going to take that gesture as an invitation. It is best to simply ignore the comment and keep on walking as if his existence doesn’t even register on your radar.

3.     Remember you are in a foreign country: In your home country, this kind of behavior might warrant physical retaliation or, at the very least, a verbal confrontation. In Argentina, however, catcalling is simply accepted and is not generally considered a very negative thing. Although I will never understand, many Argentine women even take piropos as a compliment and get distressed if they haven’t received one in a while.

4.     Know how to retaliate if it crosses a line: While the occasional light-hearted piropo is nothing to worry about, if someone is excessively harassing you while you are minding your own business and you did not make the accidental eye contact mistake, that is definitely crossing a line, and you can feel free to unleash a short scathing comment. He should get the message. Remember that is not culturally accepted for a man to touch you or make any kind of physical contact on the street, and you should definitely react and defend yourself if that line is crossed.

When the sun goes down and the city starts preparing to dance the night away in a boliche, the Argentino’s inner machista seems to shine a little brighter. Speaking from experience as a foreign woman on the Buenos Aires night scene, Argentine men are a little more persistent than what I’m used to back home in the US of A. A simple ‘no’ is generally not enough to deter the average Argentino, because, again, his inflated sense of male ego tells him that no woman could ever possibly reject his amorous advances. Obviously, if a woman says she’s not interested, he just needs to try a different approach. So what is a girl to do when she just wants to dance with the ladies, but an Argentino refuses to acknowledge that she is just not feeling it.

 1.     Be persistent: If he doesn’t listen the first time, try, try again. You may have to say no 3 or 4 times before a guy will understand that you mean business. Even then, he might try to act like there’s something wrong with you for rejecting him, but at least he’ll be off your case.

2.     Get back-up from a friend: If a guy really won’t leave you alone, it’s always good to have another friend back you up. Have your girlfriend say no, too, that you don’t want to chat, dance, or make out on the dance floor with this guy. For some reason, a little noise from the peanut gallery usually makes a guy back off sooner.

3.     Go out in a large group: The more people you go out with, the less likely it is that a guy will bother you, so sometimes it is nice to go out with a large group of amigos. If there are guys included in the group, even better. Very few Argentinos will approach you while you’re hanging out with another man, and a back-up ‘no’ from a male friend is almost a guaranteed free pass to dance the night away unbothered.

4.      Have fun: Don’t let the overly excited Argentinos ruin your fun. You can still have a great night with just the ladies or even meet a guy you actually do want to dance with. So if you have to say no to the first few frogs that come along, don’t despair. There are plenty of princes in the city, and you might just find one to teach you a little more about the local lifestyle.

machistas en da club 150x150 Going out as a woman in Buenos Aires: How to handle the machistas

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Expanish’s Favourite Tours in Buenos Aires

Monday, December 12, 2011 14:59

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Art, Museums, Theatre & Cinema, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays - 0 Comments

 

So you’ve got a spare few days in Buenos Aires and are wondering what to do…well why not take a tour? Buenos Aires is full of numerous different tours to do, and we’ve decided to create a list of Expanish’s top ones to make the most of your stay in Buenos Aires…

  • Of course, the classic tour which can be found in every city all over the world is the bus tour. And Buenos Aires is no different – there are a couple of ones which offer great tours, stopping off at all the major sightseeing points of Buenos Aires.

http://www.buenosairesbus.com/en/ – with 20 different stops, you’ll   be sure to get a good feel of the city.

http://www.lopentour.com.ar/ – this company offers 4 different routes – a north circuit, a south circuit, a night time tour and a Porteño tour.

Open Top Bus 300x250 Expanishs Favourite Tours in Buenos Aires

  • If you are feeling like something a little more strenuous, then there are also plenty of companies which offer walking tours around Buenos Aires. One of the best we’ve found is http://www.buenostours.com/ which offers walking tours around the city in private groups. All of the guides are UK or US expats so not only know the city well but also speak English and Spanish fluently. 
  • For those of you looking to save the pennies (or centavos!), but are happy to do group tours, there is a company which runs group tours around Buenos Aires called http://www.bafreetour.com/. They offer a range of different tours, such as the ‘city tour’ or the ‘aristocratic city tour’ which takes you around to show the contrast between the different areas in Buenos Aires. They also offer a tour to the famous ‘Mataderos’ market where every Sunday you get to see the traditional performances from Gauchos who come to display their horsemanship with special shows and dances.
  • If you feel like venturing out of the centre of the city but don’t have time to go too far then why not go to Tigre where there are numerous things to do such as canoeing on the delta. Expanish is a big fan of Bike It! (http://www.bikeit.com.ar/) which offers great tours where you can actually bike to Tigre and then do a canoeing tour around the deltas when you get there.
  • If you have not discovered this already, then you soon will upon arriving in Buenos Aires, but Tango is a huge part of the culture in Buenos Aires. Consequently, you will find a huge number of ‘tango experiences’ all around the city. It’s definitely worth doing one, but just be careful you choose an authentic one which is not too touristy.

Tango 300x205 Expanishs Favourite Tours in Buenos Aires

  • For the history fans amongst you, why not do a tour of the city whilst learning about Argentina’s icon, Evita. Not only will you get to see a bit of the city, but you can also learn about her life as you visit the new Evita museum (http://museoevita.org/en/) as well as various sites around the city.

Eva Peron Expanishs Favourite Tours in Buenos Aires

  • For those looking for something slightly different, there is now a company which offers ‘Grafitti Tours’ around Buenos Aires. Street art is now becoming an important part of the culture of Buenos Aires. As you will have noticed, you can barely walk a block without seeing some sort of graffiti, particularly in Palermo and San Telmo. If you feel like branching out from the standard tour then have a look at what this Grafitti Mundo offers – http://graffitimundo.com. They also offer workshops where you can have a go yourself!

street art 300x200 Expanishs Favourite Tours in Buenos Aires

Diego Maradona: Argentina’s Icon

Monday, December 5, 2011 12:39

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions - 0 Comments

 

Who would people usually mention when thinking of Argentina? Eva Peron? Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara? Lionel Messi? It all depends on what interests the person of course. But I’m sure that basically everyone would mention Diego Maradona. Even people who aren’t interested in football will know a bit about him and have an opinion about his life.

Being a big football fan, I find him one of the most interesting people in the world. In my opinion all great people in this world have some kind of downside, and clearly Diego Maradona has a couple of them. But I think that these do not overshadow his great football skills, the things he has said, and the great entertainment he gave and still is giving us. Before coming to Argentina it is essential to know something about Diego Maradona. It will definitely help you in communicating with locals which of course is a good way to practice your Spanish!

Early years

Diego Armando Maradona, born on 30th October 1960, was the first son in a family of three daughters. He was raised in a shantytown south of Buenos Aires. At the age of 12 he started playing at Argentinos Juniors. And here is the first fact which will help you in Buenos Aires: The rivalry in Buenos Aires between River Plate and Boca Juniors is massive, but the majority of the football fans will love Diego Maradona, regardless of the fact that Diego played for Boca Juniors for big part of his career.  So when having a football conversation with a River Plate fan don’t forget to mention that Diego Maradona is the greatest player ever played for Argentinos Juniors and just don’t mention Boca Juniors. This knowledge will help you to make friends very easily.

Young Diego Maradona 199x300 Diego Maradona: Argentinas Icon

Europe

After playing 40 matches and scoring 28 goals for Boca Juniors in Argentina, Maradona played not so successfully (due to injures) for Barcelona. In 1984 Diego moved to the smaller club Napoli which he put on the football map forever after winning the championship twice, the cup once and the UEFA Cup. Winning the UEFA Cup in 1989 was a massive prize but the best part of this campaign in my opinion happened at the Semi Final in Berlin.  While all other players were doing their warming up Diego was juggling the ball with his shoelaces untied dancing to Opus – Life is Life. Watch the video and enjoy the calm and great way Maradona is preparing for the match.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXzChH7MV60
“Warming up before Bayern – Napoli”

After his Napoli period Maradona played for a short while in Spain for Sevilla, before returning to Argentina to Newells Old Boys in 1993 and to Boca Juniors in 1995

International career

Maradona played in 4 World Cups for Argentina (‘82,’86,’90,’94) winning the World Cup in ’86 and finishing runner up in 1990. During the World Cup in Mexico ’86 Maradona became a legend. It wasn’t just for the 5 goals and 5 assists, the unanimous vote for the man of the tournament, or the amazing moves Maradona showed in this tournament. During the quarter-finals against England (and I suggest the British football fans to skip this part of the blog) Diego scored both goals in the 2-1 win. His second goal was voted “Goal of the century” in 2002. Diego put the ball in the net after dribbling past five English players and the goalkeeper.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk-kXwjASEE
“Goal of the century”

Maradona winning world cup 300x204 Diego Maradona: Argentinas Icon

The first goal is probably the most famous goals in football history. Everybody probably has heard of “the hand of God” or “La mano de Dios”. And I don’t think I need to explain everybody that hitting the ball in the net with your hand is against the rules, and that telling the rest of the world that the hand you just used to score was the hand of God is (in my opinion) hilarious. But did you know that Maradona can actually sing, and has a very cool song about this goal. So listen and enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NI5oTTW_is
“Maradona singing La mano de Dios”

Maradona hand score 300x195 Diego Maradona: Argentinas Icon

Downside

So where to start when describing the not so good sides of Maradona?
Drugs? Well yes, Diego was addicted to drugs from the mid-80’s till 2004. He has been suspended from playing football twice (’91 and ’94) but has been in rehab a couple of times and so should be clean now.
Overweight? True as well, in 2005 Maradona had to go to Cartagena de Indias clinic in Colombia to undergo a bypass surgery.
Shooting journalists with an airgun? Check! In 1994 Maradona injured four people while shooting an airgun at journalists.
Bad language during press conferences? He’s been there, done that! After qualifying for the 2010 world cup in South-Africa Maradona ‘thanked’ the people who didn’t believe in him in a very strange way. I am not going to quote the words he said, as I find it a bit inappropriate, so watch and enjoy one of the strangest press conferences I’ve ever seen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIbQbGq-jIE
“Press conference Diego Maradona”

And there are many more things that could be named as negative parts about Diego Maradona. But in my opinion (and I believe in yin-yang) there are more positive than negative things about Diego Maradona. He’s a low class hero giving a lot of people the enjoyment in life which they need. I would like to leave you with one last video. This video shows that Diego still just loves to play football. In this video Maradona is playing around with the ball, until a bodyguard walks past. And everybody who has ever played football knows that this is something amazing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqt_YLXaw8Y
“Diego Maradona still enjoying playing football”

maradona with world cup 248x300 Diego Maradona: Argentinas Icon

Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

Friday, November 25, 2011 11:41

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays - 0 Comments

 

Here at Expanish Spanish School, we find Argentine history endlessly fascinating. It reads like a hybrid of a hollywood movie and classic novel, featuring action, romance, wars, economic crises and a string of glamorous leading ladies and heroes. One of the best known being Eva Peron, or Evita as she is known to many.  We all know about the Hollywood movie, with Madonna starring as Eva Peron, but we wanted to dig a bit deeper. So here’s our Expanish quick guide to the legend that is Eva Peron.

Eva Peron Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

Eva Peron’s Childhood

Full name María Eva Duarte de Perón, she was born in Los Toldos and raised by her humble family in rural Argentina in 1919. Her father who was a wealthy rancher, deserted Eva’s mother in 1920 to join his ‘other family’ (it wasn’t uncommon for wealthy men to have multiple families!) leading to her mother and the remainder of her family to move to Junin in Buenos Aires province, the family stigmatized by the abandonment of her father.

Her move to Buenos Aires

A lady with ambition from a young age, Eva Peron moved to the bright lights of Buenos Aires at the age of 15 to pursue her dreams of becoming a movie star. She lived with family friends and enjoyed the cosmopolitan scene that was blossoming in BA in the 1930s.

The early acting career of Eva Peron

In the early days she toured Argentina with a theatre company whilst working as a model in her spare time. She got a ‘stable’ acting job in the early 40s in a radio drama series, and subsequently a number of other radio dramas including one where she played Elizabeth I of England. As a result of he burgeoning acting career she was able to rent an apartment in Recoleta (1567 Calle Posadas Street)

Meeting Juan Peron

An earthquake in  San Juan, Argentina in 1944 bought the couple together. It was at the earthquake charity gala that Eva and Juan Peron together. Shortly after meeting they began to live together, which caused some controversy. It is thought that at this stage in Eva Peron’s life, she had no interest in politics and merely absorbed what she heard in his presence.

Eva 219x300 Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

Eva Peron’s early days in the public eye

Eva’s first foray into the world of Argentine politics was when she was elected president of a performers union. She immediately showed her skills as a woman of the people, communicating and connecting with her public naturally.

It was in 1945, when Juan Peron was arrested (by government opposition who feared he was getting too powerful within government). Six days later between 250,000 and 350,000 people gathered outside the Casa Rosada to demand his release and their wish was granted. Eva Peron stepped onto the balcony and addressed the crowd… some claim this was the moment that made Eva Peron a legend. Eva and Juan were married shortly after this event.

Eva Peron Balcony 300x225 Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

Eva Peron as a politician and activist

Some of Eva’s high profile activities included a much publizised tour of Europe meeting European dignitaries and politicians, including the Pope and Franco (dictator in Spain). Peron’s charitable work and cause driven work continued throughout the 1940s, including support of women’s suffrage.-

In 1951 Eva decided she wanted to win a place on the ballot as a candidate for vice president (a move that angered  many military leaders, as, according to the Argentine Constitution, the Vice President automatically succeeds the President in the event of the President’s death. The possibility of Evita becoming president in the event of Juan Perón’s death was not something the military could accept)

But her popularity amongst the working classes and feminist movement grew and grew. Wikipedia recounts a moment when she had a mass dialogue with the crowd at a political rally.

‘At the mass rally, the crowd demanded that Evita publicly announce her official candidacy as vice president. She pleaded for more time to make her decision. The exchange between Evita and the crowd of two million became, for a time, a genuine and spontaneous dialogue, with the crowd chanting, “¡Evita, Vice-Presidente!” When Evita asked for more time so she could make up her mind, the crowd demanded, “¡Ahora, Evita, ahora!” (“Now, Evita, now!”). Eventually, they came to a compromise. Evita told the audience that she would announce her decision over the radio a few days later.’

In the end, she decided not to apply for candidacy, saying she only wanted that a large chapter of history would be written about her husband.

Eva Peron with Husband Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

Evita’s death

In 1951 it became clear the Eva Peron’s health was declining. Her husband withheld the details of her illness from her in the early stages. In 1952 on July 26th, Evita died (aged 33). The news was immediately broadcast throughout the country, and Argentina went into mourning.

Eva Peron’s legend lives on

  • Though it is not an official government holiday, the anniversary of Eva Perón’s death is marked by Argentines every year.
  • Eva Perón has been featured on Argentine coins, and a form of Argentine currency called “Evitas” was named in her honor
  • Ciudad Evita – Was established by the Eva Perón Foundation in 1947
  • Museo Evita  – Was created by her great-niece Cristina Alvarez Rodriquez, houses many of Eva Perón’s clothes, portraits, and artistic renderings of her life
  • The woman with the whip – Was the first hostilebiography published about Eva Peron
  • Evita – The musical production began as a concept album, was soon turned into a stage production and later into a Hollywood movie starring Madonna as Evita (very controversial in Argentina!)

EvaPGrave Expanish Quick Guide to Argentina’s Icon: Eva Peron

 

Expanish guide to the Buenos Aires Subte system

Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:38

Categories - Argentina Travel Info, Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Coming from a far away land where cars are the primary form of transportation, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that public transportation in Buenos Aires is the main form of getting around the city.  It is a relief to not worry about gas, parking, and driving in general.  Of course I do miss the perks of having my own car and getting places quickly, but I also feel more free without the burden of cars.   Although there is an extremely useful and extensive public bus system in Buenos Aires, most newcomers will most likely fall back on using the subway as it is a bit less intimidating to use, so it is always good to get some general information about if if you are planning on coming to Argentina.

The subway system in Buenos Aires is surprisingly efficient.  The subway cars come every few minutes, they get you to where you are going quickly, it is simple to use and it is cheap.  For these reasons it is the public transportation of choice by most foreigners and Argentines alike (take that, public bus system!).

 subtejen 300x208 Expanish guide to the Buenos Aires Subte system

 

Since each line was constructed at a different period, commuters will find a variety of “looks” to each one from the antique subway cars on the A line, which has the oldest commercial cars in the world, to the H line, which is all new and shiny.

The system is continuously growing, adding new lines and extending existing ones.  This process is a bit slow, but progess is being made to add the lines G, I and F and extend the lines A, B, E and H.  To give you an idea of the plans, here is a picture of what the subway system is supposed to look like in 2015:

Buenos Aires Subway 20151 300x258 Expanish guide to the Buenos Aires Subte system

 

Will this happen in time?  Definitely not, but it is nice to see that there are plans to make this great form of transportation more convenient and available to more people in the city.

To help those who are new to Buenos Aires, we have put together a list of key vocabulary and guidelines for a successful ride.

Spanish Subway Vocabulary

Subte – Subway

A term specific to Buenos Aires.

Estación – Station

(Un) viaje – (One) trip

If you buy a subte card you can by 1, 2, 5 or 10 trips together.

 Expanish guide to the Buenos Aires Subte system

 

Línea – Line, referring to the subway line

There are currently 6 lines that run throughout the city.

Combinación – Combination

As in riding one line and changing to another.

Interupido  – Interrupted

They say that repetition is the best way to learn a new word, so do not be surprised if this is the first vocab word you pick up in BA, as you will hear this spoken over the loudspeakers when service is “interrupted”, a frequent occurance.

Con demora – With Delay

Another common term you might hear often.

Hora pico – Rush hour

See description below.

If you are looking for more, check out our Expanish Spanish School Spanish Crash Course on Wednesday that goes over travelling in Spanish and it touches on public transportation in Buenos Aires.

Guidelines and Tips For a Successful Subte Ride

Hora Pico –  Be aware of when hora pico, or rush hour, occurs on the subte. In the morning, rush hour is around 8-10 am, and in the evening, around 5-8 pm. If possible, try to take the subte outside of these hours. If your school or work schedule doesn’t allow this, prepare for the real Argentine experience, as you watch porteños continuously defying the time/space continuum as they human Jenga and kung-fu panda their way onto the crowded subte.

 

subte21 300x199 Expanish guide to the Buenos Aires Subte system

 

Know the Subte Layout: Knowing where the better spots are on the subte is especially important to know during hora pico (see above). To get on a less crowded section of the subte, try to get on the section that is more towards the end of the actual train, as more people tend to board in the middle sections. If you can’t get a seat on the train, try to get a standing spot in front of the people that are sitting – not only does this allow you to avoid all the aggressive porteños Lion King stampeding their way onto the subte, but you are also in prime position to get a seat once the people sitting down get off the subte.

Dress For Success – Knowing exactly how to dress on the subte can mean the difference between fainting a la Marie Osmond on Dancing With The Stars, and well…not fainting a la Marie Osmond on Dancing With The Stars. Buenos Aires is known for its humidity in the summer, so try to wear light and breathable clothing, i.e. stay away from the cotton. 

The winter is a little more complicated, as although it is cold outside, in the actual subte, the combination of the lack of fans and the fire-hazard-defying amount of people packed into the subway means that you feel like you’re trapped in a sauna…in the middle of Death Valley. So how do you  manage to overcome the obstacle of reconciling these warring climates? Dress in layers – wear that long sleeve shirt with your comfy winter coat. While you’re on the subte, take off your coat, and when you get off at your station, put that warm extra layer back on. It takes some trial and error to figure out the perfect Not Too Hot / Not Too Cold combo, but with a little practice, you can succeed!

Know the Phrase, Bajás? - This is one of the most useful phrases you will be armed with when navigating the public transportation system in Buenos Aires. Bajás essentially means, “Are you getting off (at this station)?” but really is more of a passive aggressive way to let the mountains of people in front of you know that if they are not getting off at that stop, then they need to get the frack out of the way PRONTO.  Try it sometime, it works wonders.

Don’t Eat on the Subte – As starving as you are, don’t eat in the subte, because it’s against the rules, and even worse, porteños will give you huge caras de culo to display their disapproval. Once, in the middle of just another insoportable summer, I saw a brave woman gorging into her petri dish (yogurt) on the subway, so I applaud her ability to defy social convention. but I do not recommend it. I’m not going to lie, I haven’t exactly followed this rule 100% because I’m a huge gordita, but try as much as you can not to stuff your face in potato chips until after you get off the subway.

Be A Good Samaritan – The upside of the machista undertones of Argentine culture is that older and pregnant women get treated like queens – and if you’re an old AND pregnant woman (I’m talking to you OctoMom), congratulations, you’ve just reached the peak of the public transportation hierarchy. This means you’ll see lots of caballeros (and reluctant women that aren’t old and/or pregnant…cough cough myself) get up from their seats so that these lucky ladies can sit down.

So, if you find yourself in a situation where someone who fits this category asks you to get up for them, don’t go all Snooki Jersey Shore on them – as painful it is to relinquish your throne, it’s part of the rules, and plus, it generates good karma.

Extra Tip: If you are unfortunately not old or pregnant, do not lose hope, there is still a way to get a seat on the train! How, you may ask? Pull the injury card. A few months ago I sprained my ankle, and I found that hobbling around on the subte also did the trick. Let’s just say I may or may not have pretended to hobble around for a few extra days, even after I was 100% healed…

 

Survival Tactics for Rock Concerts in Argentina

Friday, November 18, 2011 12:35

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays - 0 Comments

 

Last weekend I went to my first rock concert (Pearl Jam) in Buenos Aires, or rather in the capital of the Province of Buenos Aires, at the sold-out Estadio Unico in La Plata. Although I’ve already been to a lot of rock concerts or festivals in Germany, I was positively shocked and surprised about differences between the audience and the whole atmosphere.

Estadio Unico Survival Tactics for Rock Concerts in Argentina

Firstly, I was really impressed with the organization of the whole event, except that the security people had some problems with the orientation so they made us walk in the wrong direction 3 times before we got to the right entrance to the stadium. Oh and if you are thinking about going to a concert of this size you should know that the timing is very different to the smaller concerts in the city. The doors opened at the announced time and the support act started to play really punctually (which – as you might know – is very unusual in Argentina!).

Before Pearl Jam started to play I just wanted to drink a beer with my friends but it turned out to be very normal that in the big concerts they don’t sell any alcohol! At first I was a little bit annoyed by that fact but after the concert I understood very well why they do that: obviously the Argentinean audience is just crazy (or as they would call it “re loco”) and with the people drinking alcohol it would be too dangerous. ¡Es un quilombo total! But don’t worry, it is unnecessary that the security guy – as he did when we entered – says “suerte” which means pretty much the same as “good luck”.

Rockfans 300x179 Survival Tactics for Rock Concerts in Argentina

The good thing is that the fans sing all the songs even if they have no idea of what it means or even if they don’t know the lyrics! Sometimes it seems to be more like a football game…You should definitely learn some hymns of the Argentinean audience before you go to the concert, although you learn it very fast by listening to what they sing after every single song. Here is an example:

“Ole ole ole ole ole ole ola, ole ole ole cada día te quiero más,ohhhhhhh soy Pearl Jam (they just put in the name of the band or artist they’re listening to), es un sentimiento no puedo parar!”

As you can imagine now, the fans and the atmosphere is just stunning, but it’s like that almost all over the world.

There’s one thing to remember: Be prepared to lose your friends and not to find them again when you are in the stalls. Straight away during the first song, I lost them all and I didn’t see them until we met at the meeting point we (fortunately) had agreed on before.

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After the end of the concert I was just so happy, satisfied and exhausted, so I wanted to buy quickly a T-shirt as a “recuerdo” but there is one thing I was angry about: the merchandising guys already took off and you could only buy a bad quality t-shirt from a guy selling it outside the concert area…But next time I’m gonna buy the T-shirt before the concert gets started to make sure that it is a “buen recuerdo”.

Right now, two days after the concert I still can’t stop smiling all the time and thinking about that great music event. I can recommend it to everyone; it’s an experience you shouldn’t miss.  Can’t wait to go to the next concert and to enjoy the Argentinean way of celebrating the music!

homer rock 297x300 Survival Tactics for Rock Concerts in Argentina

Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

Tuesday, November 1, 2011 13:31

Categories - Argentina Travel Info, Argentine Customs and Culture, Food in Buenos Aires, Restaurants, Bars, Cafes, Clubs - 0 Comments

I have always been coffee obsessed, verging on the edge of coffee snobbery. Back in the UK, I owned a lovely espresso maker that made a great cup of coffee, and I would look forward to my regular trips to Monmouth coffee shop in the centre of London, where I’d enjoy every moment of the creamy velvety texture of their Brazilian café lattes.

monmouth 3 560x371 300x198 Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

 

So, when I left to Study Spanish in Argentina, a country that sits at the heart of the world’s greatest coffee producing continent, South America, I was expecting to live like a coffee queen, enjoying daily cups of the freshest most delicious coffee imaginable and a fraction of the cost of my $5 latte back home. Oh how I was disappointed.  And here are some of the reasons why.

  • Ground coffee always has sugar in it! – Buy a packet of fresh ground coffee in your local supermarket or chino and check the ingredients. The likelihood is it will have added sugar in it! Why why why cant they let us choose if we want to add sugar or not
  • Burnt coffee – You’ll notice that the majority of coffee houses in BA over burn the coffee when they make it, giving it a bitter taste
  • Too watery  - It also tends to be over watery the majority of the time
  • Small takeaway cups – When you take away coffee here you’re given teeny tiny polystyrene cups.  Not enough to wake me up in the morning
  • Expensive – Coffee isn’t cheap in this city, especially if you choose one of the chains such as Starbucks or Havana. 17 pesos for a small, bitter café con leche is not a great deal in my opinion.

Don’t get me wrong, there are some good cups of coffee to be had in cafés around the city and I do love Buenos Aires’ café culture especially the free cake and little glass of fizzy water you get, and the fact that ordering one cup of coffee appears to buy you the right to sit at your table all day, without once nasty glance from the waiters. 

But to get really good coffee, you really have to hunt… luckily i’ve done the hunting for you (thanks to hours spent doing my Expanish Spanish homework in various caf) blog has done the hunting for you. We’ve compiled a list of some of the best coffee outlets we’ve found in Buenos Aires so far.

The Coffee Store

A chain of coffee shops that can be found around the city offering pretty good quality, coffee of the non burnt variety, in reasonably sized cups!

coffee store Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

 

Barista

Not the best coffee in the world (Especially considering the name) but definitely one of the better outlets and mighty cheap as well. 7 pesos for a café con leche is almost half of what you’d pay in some of the chains

La Poesia

You’ll find coffee here verging on the burnt variety unfortunately, but it’s a favorite café of mine, and the atmosphere makes up for the not so perfect coffee. Plus you always get a delicious piece of cake on the side

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Pablo’s Panaderia

The best coffee i’ve had in Buenos Aires, and as close as i’ve ever got to my favorite coffee outlet in the whole word, London’s Monmouth Coffee. But you pay a premium (19 pesos at last count) and the cups are too small

panaderia branding 300x191 Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

 

La Gringa

Gringa is a great little place for brunch and their coffee is up there with the best in Buenos Aires. A great place to relax, read the paper and do your Spanish homework.

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El Malvon

One of my favourite café in Buenos Aires, their coffee is ok, but their huge mega brunch is even better

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BA Brunch Club

The first closed door restaurants dedicated to offering the best brunch in town in a lovely traditional San Telmo house. Owned and run by an Irish couple who know how to make good coffee!

BA brunch club 300x200 Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

Establecimiento General de Café

Another relatively new chain that can be found dotted around Buenos Aires and serves a pretty decent coffee

establecimiento general de cafe logo Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

And on my sinners list are the two biggest chains in Argentina, Havana and Martinez. I’d avoid these chains if you’re looking for decent coffee….unless you like it overpriced, watery and burnt.

   havanna logo1 20100822 001204 Expanish Guide to Coffee in Argentina

Celebrities in Argentina

Wednesday, October 26, 2011 13:17

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Expanish News - 0 Comments

Apart from working at Expanish, my dream job would be writing a blog about celebrity gossip.  It is mostly a pipe dream since people like Perez Hilton and TMZ pretty much dominate that blog niche.  This does not, however, deter me from writing my own little blog post about celebrities.  As a resident of Buenos Aires, Argentina I thought I would have an advantage about anything gossip-worthy here in Argentina, so what could be better than writing about celebrities who have visited this fine city?  So get ready for some best-of-the-best gossip over the past few years, some of them are especially bife de chorizo juicy…

Beiber 300x208 Celebrities in Argentina

Justin Bieber – 2011

As almost all 14-year-old girls in the world know, Justin Bieber recently visited Buenos Aires for a concert and while he was here did some press to promote it.  The most noteworthy of his appearanes was on the talk show, “Susana Giménez”, appropriately hosted by Susana Giménez.  This appearance was greatly anticipated by all of Argentina, yet the actual show was a bit of a boring disappointment.  I have not seen Justin in a situation where he actually has to put sentences together instead of just sing the word “Baby” or “Girl” over and over again, but the combination of Susanna being completely bonkers and Justin not understanding Spanish made the whole thing a bit weird.  It seems as though Justin does not enjoy talking about himself in front of an audience.  You can watch the video to see the full extent of the awkwardness here.

During his stay he was at the fancy Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero.  This is where past celebrities like Beyonce have stayed, so I guess if you are looking to see a famous person in real life you should probably just hang around there more often.  In true Bieber form, there were hundreds of crazy teen girls and, lets face it, lots of people of all ages and genders, waiting outside the hotel.  A few girls even tried to break through security when Justin waved to them so the police had to block off multiple streets.  It made international news on all gossip blogs and even regular periodicals like the New York Post.

With all of this great Bieber gossip I am not even sure how the concert went.  Does it matter?  The important thing is that he was the most talked about topic for a week straight, even right before the national elections for the new president of Argentina.  Isn’t that how it should be?

 justin bieber fans argentina gone wild 300x165 Celebrities in Argentina

Natalie Portman – 2006

Before Natalie was an Academy Award winner, she was just a regular girl dating Gael Garcia Bernal.  Circa 2006, he was filming a movie in Buenos Aires and living in the neighborhood of San Telmo.  I know this because at that time because it was a common sight to see them walking through the neighborhood hand-in-hand.  This was just weeks before their break-up, so possibly Buenos Aires had something to do with that?

Many of my friends would call me to let me know that they just saw them.  Did my friends yell out “I love you Natalie!” or some sort of reference to her Star Wars role?  No, they did not.  They did not even take a picture.  This just goes to show you that you should always carry a digital camera just in case you have a celebrity sighting.

 natalie portman metamorfose img wallpaper 03 1024 300x225 Celebrities in Argentina

Jenna and Barbara Bush – 2006

During their trip to Buenos Aires they were staying in a boutique hotel in Palermo.  At one point they were in the neighborhood of San Telmo doing some shopping and got their purses and cell phones stolen.  Whether or not they were actually stolen or were just lost is not clear, but either way the U.S. Embassy and asked them to leave the country after the incident to not attact more negative attention.  What was the greatest was that they were being gaurded by the secret service and still managed to get into trouble.  A reporter even said that she was surprised by the lack of security for the twins in this article.

 2008 02 11BushTwins 300x217 Celebrities in Argentina

Some other celebrities spotted in the city and what were they doing?

 kate hudson matthew bellamy buenos aires 04192011 02 300x182 Celebrities in Argentina

Kate Hudson – Ate breakfast (gasp!)

Nick Jonas – Had a concert sans other brothers

Cindi Lauper – Had a concert, also got bored and sang in the airport

Miley Cyrus – Wore inappropriately short shorts (but is that really news?)

Michael Buble – Got married to an Argentine woman

Bono – Played a secret gig at Frank’s bar

I will say, however, that my knowledge of actual Argentine celebrities is limited, so I have mainly focused on more “international” celebrities.  Maybe I should get into local gossip as a new way to immerse myself in Argentine culture?  Sounds like a 2012 New Year’s resolution to me.

To wrap things up, I think it is extremely important for celebrities to understand the culture and language of the countries they visit (I’m talking to you, Bieber).  This is why I wanted to send an open invitation to any famous person who might want to take some group or individual Spanish classes here at Expanish Spanish School in Buenos Aires.  George Clooney, do you need to improve your accent in Spanish?  Do you, Oprah, know the difference between the informal “tú” of Mexico versus the “vos” of Buenos Aires?  I dare any celebrity (preferably Lady Gaga) to come and join us.

Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:04

Categories - Argentina Travel Info, Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Anyone visiting or living in Buenos Aires will become very familiar with the yellow and black taxis that hurtle around the city, dodging buses and pedestrians like they’re playing some kind of 1980s road racer computer game. There many obvious benefits to travelling by taxi in Argentina’s capital, they are relatively cheap, quick (sometimes to quick), and Buenos Aires’ taxistas tend to be a chatty bunch, so its a great way to practice your spanish, but there are some details you should be aware of before taking a cab in the city. Here is Expanish Spanish School Blog ’s top things to look out for when travelling by taxi in Buenos Aires

  1. 1.       Radio is still the best: Just get into taxis that are so called “Radio Taxis”, which means they belong to a larger reputable company. You can spot a radio taxi because it will usually have a mark on both the front door (saying taxi) but also on the back door, showing which company it belongs to and the phone number. They often also have a sign on the roof, so look out for that! You shouldn’t take taxis without the sign of Radio Taxi because sometimes they might be part of a bigger “mafia” community. And if you are afraid of catching up a taxi right on the street, just ask in a Bar or café if they could call you one or even a “remise” (more expensive but really safe art of taxis). Expanish can recommend the following taxi number: 1152380000

 Radio Taxi 300x196 Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 2.       Don’t overpay! Make sure that the money counting starts at about 5.80 AR$ (by day) or at about 6.80 AR$ (by night) and doesn’t run too fast. A normal taxi ride in the city should cost between 20-30 AR$. If you think the price goes up too fast, just ask him to let you out on the next corner.

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  1. 3.       No bills! Remember to have always some smaller bills then the 100 AR$. Sometimes the taxi drivers pretend not to have change and want you to give him the hundred pesos. This is especially a tip for those who are not very familiar to the Spanish language and discussion situations. WARNING: There is a well known taxi scam that dodgy taxistas operate, whereby when you hand them a 100AR$ note, they surreptitiously swap it for a fake note, hand it back to you and ask for a replacement. This is quite common, so watch out if you do have to hand over a 100AR

 

  1. 4.       Foreigners often are taken for a long way round! You can be sure that all the taxi drivers know the city and all the streets like the back of their hand. So if you know at least the direction where to go, you should pay attention that he doesn’t make a detour. If not it can happen that he takes you around the same block like 3 times. One tip for avoiding this is by having a map in front of you, so you look like you think you know where you’re going!

 Detour 300x204 Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 5.       Let your eyes open! In general it is no problem to take a taxi over here. But I know some people that got robbed in a taxi without noticing it – they are really quick! Just make sure that you don’t show around your wallet and don’t behave as the naïve idiot showing that he might have a lot of money.

 rob Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 6.       Tips: If you were satisfied with the ride than you can give a tip but this is not normal practice in BA. If you do want to give a tip,  about 2 AR$ is sufficient