Archive for the ‘Argentine Customs and Culture’ Category

Celebrities in Argentina

Wednesday, October 26, 2011 13:17

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Expanish News - 0 Comments

Apart from working at Expanish, my dream job would be writing a blog about celebrity gossip.  It is mostly a pipe dream since people like Perez Hilton and TMZ pretty much dominate that blog niche.  This does not, however, deter me from writing my own little blog post about celebrities.  As a resident of Buenos Aires, Argentina I thought I would have an advantage about anything gossip-worthy here in Argentina, so what could be better than writing about celebrities who have visited this fine city?  So get ready for some best-of-the-best gossip over the past few years, some of them are especially bife de chorizo juicy…

Beiber 300x208 Celebrities in Argentina

Justin Bieber – 2011

As almost all 14-year-old girls in the world know, Justin Bieber recently visited Buenos Aires for a concert and while he was here did some press to promote it.  The most noteworthy of his appearanes was on the talk show, “Susana Giménez”, appropriately hosted by Susana Giménez.  This appearance was greatly anticipated by all of Argentina, yet the actual show was a bit of a boring disappointment.  I have not seen Justin in a situation where he actually has to put sentences together instead of just sing the word “Baby” or “Girl” over and over again, but the combination of Susanna being completely bonkers and Justin not understanding Spanish made the whole thing a bit weird.  It seems as though Justin does not enjoy talking about himself in front of an audience.  You can watch the video to see the full extent of the awkwardness here.

During his stay he was at the fancy Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero.  This is where past celebrities like Beyonce have stayed, so I guess if you are looking to see a famous person in real life you should probably just hang around there more often.  In true Bieber form, there were hundreds of crazy teen girls and, lets face it, lots of people of all ages and genders, waiting outside the hotel.  A few girls even tried to break through security when Justin waved to them so the police had to block off multiple streets.  It made international news on all gossip blogs and even regular periodicals like the New York Post.

With all of this great Bieber gossip I am not even sure how the concert went.  Does it matter?  The important thing is that he was the most talked about topic for a week straight, even right before the national elections for the new president of Argentina.  Isn’t that how it should be?

 justin bieber fans argentina gone wild 300x165 Celebrities in Argentina

Natalie Portman – 2006

Before Natalie was an Academy Award winner, she was just a regular girl dating Gael Garcia Bernal.  Circa 2006, he was filming a movie in Buenos Aires and living in the neighborhood of San Telmo.  I know this because at that time because it was a common sight to see them walking through the neighborhood hand-in-hand.  This was just weeks before their break-up, so possibly Buenos Aires had something to do with that?

Many of my friends would call me to let me know that they just saw them.  Did my friends yell out “I love you Natalie!” or some sort of reference to her Star Wars role?  No, they did not.  They did not even take a picture.  This just goes to show you that you should always carry a digital camera just in case you have a celebrity sighting.

 natalie portman metamorfose img wallpaper 03 1024 300x225 Celebrities in Argentina

Jenna and Barbara Bush – 2006

During their trip to Buenos Aires they were staying in a boutique hotel in Palermo.  At one point they were in the neighborhood of San Telmo doing some shopping and got their purses and cell phones stolen.  Whether or not they were actually stolen or were just lost is not clear, but either way the U.S. Embassy and asked them to leave the country after the incident to not attact more negative attention.  What was the greatest was that they were being gaurded by the secret service and still managed to get into trouble.  A reporter even said that she was surprised by the lack of security for the twins in this article.

 2008 02 11BushTwins 300x217 Celebrities in Argentina

Some other celebrities spotted in the city and what were they doing?

 kate hudson matthew bellamy buenos aires 04192011 02 300x182 Celebrities in Argentina

Kate Hudson – Ate breakfast (gasp!)

Nick Jonas – Had a concert sans other brothers

Cindi Lauper – Had a concert, also got bored and sang in the airport

Miley Cyrus – Wore inappropriately short shorts (but is that really news?)

Michael Buble – Got married to an Argentine woman

Bono – Played a secret gig at Frank’s bar

I will say, however, that my knowledge of actual Argentine celebrities is limited, so I have mainly focused on more “international” celebrities.  Maybe I should get into local gossip as a new way to immerse myself in Argentine culture?  Sounds like a 2012 New Year’s resolution to me.

To wrap things up, I think it is extremely important for celebrities to understand the culture and language of the countries they visit (I’m talking to you, Bieber).  This is why I wanted to send an open invitation to any famous person who might want to take some group or individual Spanish classes here at Expanish Spanish School in Buenos Aires.  George Clooney, do you need to improve your accent in Spanish?  Do you, Oprah, know the difference between the informal “tú” of Mexico versus the “vos” of Buenos Aires?  I dare any celebrity (preferably Lady Gaga) to come and join us.

Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:04

Categories - Argentina Travel Info, Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Anyone visiting or living in Buenos Aires will become very familiar with the yellow and black taxis that hurtle around the city, dodging buses and pedestrians like they’re playing some kind of 1980s road racer computer game. There many obvious benefits to travelling by taxi in Argentina’s capital, they are relatively cheap, quick (sometimes to quick), and Buenos Aires’ taxistas tend to be a chatty bunch, so its a great way to practice your spanish, but there are some details you should be aware of before taking a cab in the city. Here is Expanish Spanish School Blog ’s top things to look out for when travelling by taxi in Buenos Aires

  1. 1.       Radio is still the best: Just get into taxis that are so called “Radio Taxis”, which means they belong to a larger reputable company. You can spot a radio taxi because it will usually have a mark on both the front door (saying taxi) but also on the back door, showing which company it belongs to and the phone number. They often also have a sign on the roof, so look out for that! You shouldn’t take taxis without the sign of Radio Taxi because sometimes they might be part of a bigger “mafia” community. And if you are afraid of catching up a taxi right on the street, just ask in a Bar or café if they could call you one or even a “remise” (more expensive but really safe art of taxis). Expanish can recommend the following taxi number: 1152380000

 Radio Taxi 300x196 Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 2.       Don’t overpay! Make sure that the money counting starts at about 5.80 AR$ (by day) or at about 6.80 AR$ (by night) and doesn’t run too fast. A normal taxi ride in the city should cost between 20-30 AR$. If you think the price goes up too fast, just ask him to let you out on the next corner.

100peso 300x123 Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

 

  1. 3.       No bills! Remember to have always some smaller bills then the 100 AR$. Sometimes the taxi drivers pretend not to have change and want you to give him the hundred pesos. This is especially a tip for those who are not very familiar to the Spanish language and discussion situations. WARNING: There is a well known taxi scam that dodgy taxistas operate, whereby when you hand them a 100AR$ note, they surreptitiously swap it for a fake note, hand it back to you and ask for a replacement. This is quite common, so watch out if you do have to hand over a 100AR

 

  1. 4.       Foreigners often are taken for a long way round! You can be sure that all the taxi drivers know the city and all the streets like the back of their hand. So if you know at least the direction where to go, you should pay attention that he doesn’t make a detour. If not it can happen that he takes you around the same block like 3 times. One tip for avoiding this is by having a map in front of you, so you look like you think you know where you’re going!

 Detour 300x204 Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 5.       Let your eyes open! In general it is no problem to take a taxi over here. But I know some people that got robbed in a taxi without noticing it – they are really quick! Just make sure that you don’t show around your wallet and don’t behave as the naïve idiot showing that he might have a lot of money.

 rob Expanish guide to taking taxis in Buenos Aires

  1. 6.       Tips: If you were satisfied with the ride than you can give a tip but this is not normal practice in BA. If you do want to give a tip,  about 2 AR$ is sufficient

Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

Tuesday, October 4, 2011 15:08

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Buenos Aires City Attractions, Student Stories - 0 Comments

As a brand new intern at Expanish Spanish school in Argentina, this is my first ever Expanish blog. For the next few months I’ll be writing weekly about my experiences learning Spanish, enjoying Buenos Aires and trying to uncover the best of the city.

First up,  let me fill you in  on my first days since arriving in Buenos Aires, and my tips for fellow newcomers on how to enjoy the city and settle in.

ba from above 300x195 Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

Arriving in a foreign country like Argentina can be a pretty daunting experience whether you are familiar with the language or not, and isn’t helped by the fact that your last few days have probably been spent sitting in an aeroplane, making you jet lagged and disorientated to say the least. My first impressions of Buenos Aires….a huge and overwhelming city. But after just a few hours I realised it is actually an incredibly welcoming city, where the locals are friendly and welcome you with open arms. 

Once you’ve recovered from your flight and have had the chance to wander around and explore Buenos Aires, you soon realise why everyone who comes here seems to fall in love with it. From the bustling streets around Avenida de Mayo to the quieter and calmer area of Recoleta, it is a truly diverse city that has something to offer everyone. It has qualities from all over the world which are all brought together to make this city so incredible while still adding its own touch of Argentinean culture. At times you can feel like you are in Paris or Barcelona, particularly when wandering around some parts of Recoleta but there are still certain aspects that remind you that you are in South America. All of this is topped off with the local Argentine traditions that you see all over the city. You can’t go 50 metres without seeing a sign for empanadas or an advertisement for a tango show. It’s these qualities which give Buenos Aires its unique character.

BUENOS1 300x225 Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

My first few days consisted of going around and getting a feel for the city… Below are the top 6 pieces of advice for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

1)      Do some sightseeing. There really is a huge amount to be seen in Buenos Aires. It’s packed full of interesting things for example Recoleta Cemetery where you can go and get lost for a couple of hours as you wander down the little streets of family tombs.

2)      Try out some of the local cuisine. Empanadas, Milanesas and Dulce de Leche for example are an absolute staple here so be sure to give them a go. Mate is a typical Argentinean drink which you must try. It is an acquired taste though!

empanadas 300x207 Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

3)      Experience the world-renowned nightlife that Buenos Aires has to offer. The ‘city that never sleeps’ truly lives up to name. Firstly there are a huge number of bars and boliches to choose from so whatever you’re into, you can be sure that there will be something to cater to your needs. Secondly, none of them shut until 7 – I’m not sure about other countries but certainly in England this is pretty much unheard of! And don´t forget to stop for an early morning snack at one of the many 24 hour restaurants that Buenos Aires has to offer…

boliches pinamar 300x213 Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

4)      Interact with the locals. They are so friendly and gracious and always willing to help if you get lost or need to find something. Apart from anything else, I found it a great way to practise my Spanish.

5)      Be sure to try out the Subte and the buses. They really are the quickest and cheapest (at only $1.10 for a single journey it’s a must) way to get around. The bus in particular really helps you to get a feel for the city and find your bearings.

6)      Last but not least, obviously you can´t forget to pay a visit to one of the many Freddo´s dotted around the city…it’s an absolute must! They really do have the best ice-cream in Buenos Aires.

freddo3a 199x300 Tips for enjoying Buenos Aires as a newcomer

I think the most important advice is to ENJOY it and EMBRACE the city. The only way you can truly get the most out of your experience here is to get stuck in. You have to truly immerse yourself in everything because at the end of the day, you don’t want to leave wishing you had done more things. Although it may seem terrifying to begin with, you would be surprised how quickly this feeling goes and is replaced with an absolute love for the city.

A Guide to the Buenos Aires Tango Festival

Friday, August 19, 2011 13:16

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Art, Museums, Theatre & Cinema, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays - 0 Comments

As you surely know by now, from August 16th the Buenos Aires Tango Festival and World Championships will be held in Buenos Aires, the Tango event with the widest international involvement in the world. Thousands of visitors and dancers from around the world will come to the city to participate in the various activities, enabling them to live, eat and breathe tango for two weeks.

Here is some useful information to help you take advantage of this great opportunity to participate in the many activities organized and become a Tango expert!

tango 240x300 A Guide to the Buenos Aires Tango Festival

Tango

The passionate Tango, year after year, increases its followers not only in Argentina but all over the world. The Tango’s rich historical heritage has ensured its continuous growth has not been detrimental to its strong sense of tradition.

The global growth and influence of Tango has been so great that in December 2009 it was declared the Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial de la Humanidad (Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity) by UNESCO. Additionally, since February 2010 the Tango has had its own official home in Buenos Aires: the Teatro de la Ribera in the neighborhood of La Boca. All the events here are devoted exclusively to the traditional (tango-based) music of Buenos Aires, with milongas, shows, classes and exhibitions taking place all year round.

What to do during the Festival

The Fair
The traditional Fair of Products, that complements the musical program of Tango Buenos Aires, will open its doors once again in 2011. The fair involves a varied display of artistic productions related to Tango. It is an excellent opportunity for visitors – both Argentine and foreign – to access, appreciate and purchase all sorts of tango-based products, for example shoes, clothing, books, records and other forms of one-of-a-kind memorabilia.

Exhibition dedicated to Carlos Gardel
One major exhibition of Tango Buenos Aires 2011 is dedicated to the world of Tango icon Carlos Gardel, the singer with the ‘exceptional voice and eternal smile’. From Wednesday 17th to Sunday 28th, visitors to the Centro de Exposiciones will get to see the largest exhibition about Carlitos ever held. Produced by the Industrias Culturales Argentinas program, the exhibition, made up of over 500 pieces, will include possessions, photographs, records, and historical documents. The exhibition will be open daily from 4pm to 10pm and will be located in a prime position within the Centro de Exposiciones. Access is, as with all the shows and activities on offer throughout Tango Buenos Aires, free. This exhibition will provide a unique opportunity for the public to learn about the life, love and work of a man who defeated death. It is because of this, Carlitos, as the old Argentine popular saying goes, “sings better every day.”

4750992 209x300 A Guide to the Buenos Aires Tango Festival
Concerts and Activities

During the 2 week Festival over 150 concerts, dance shows, milongas and parties will take place, and importantly, all of them are free! You can view the complete list of activities and events here:

http://www.tangobuenosaires.gob.ar

Tickets
As all activities and shows in Buenos Aires Tango Festival and World Championship are free, tickets are distributed on a first come first served basis, and it is rare that they do not reach full capacity. The only shows that require you to reserve a ticket are those hosted by the CCC Teatro 25 de Mayo, as well as the semifinals and final of the Tango World Championship.

Tickets for the CCC Teatro 25 de Mayo

Tickets for activities scheduled at the CCC Teatro 25 de Mayo may only be collected on the day of show at the theater box office from 11am to 18pm, Av Triunvirato 4444. Ticket allocations are restricted to a maximum of two per person.

Tickets for the World Championship Semifinals and Final
Tickets for the semifinals and final rounds may be collected on Monday, August 22, from 11am to 19pm from the Casa de la Cultura, Avenida de Mayo 575. The allocation restrictions of two tickets per person apply. There are two categories to choose from: Salon Tango and Stage Tango.

I hope this information will come in useful, and I might even see you in one of the many milongas that take place throughout the festival!

Milva

Book Stores in Buenos Aires

Thursday, August 11, 2011 12:24

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Art, Museums, Theatre & Cinema, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays, Shopping - 0 Comments

This year, Buenos Aires was declared World Capital of the Book, a distinction that the Forum for the sciences, culture and education from the UN awards to a different city every year. Here in Argentina, books are such a big part of our everyday lives that getting the 2011 award was the icing on a cake that we have been eating, and enjoying, for a very long time. The work of art by our very own female version of Andy Warhol, minus the drag queens and the Velvet Underground, conceptual artist Marta Minujin, was excellent. Marta built a giant Babel Tower made of 30.000 books from around the world. The tower was on exhibition for a limited time only at Plaza San Martin.

Since Marta Minujin’s tower has been dismantled, the books have been donated to charity. In a similar vein, there is currently a very interesting initiative going viral on the internet: Liberacion Masiva de Libros. This city-wide initiative, in which people leave a book in a park, a corner or a doorstep with a note inside dedicating the book to an unknown fellow reader, continues on august 14. As next Sunday (the 21st) is the Day of the Child, this date will be focused on children’s’ books.

books tower 300x224 Book Stores in Buenos Aires

Anyway, on to our subject: Bookshops in Buenos Aires (whenever I start talking about books I tend to go off on a tangent – sorry!). As you probably have already seen, there are as many bookstores as there are psychologists (maybe not so many) in the city. The segment of Corrientes Avenue, from Riobamba to 9 de Julio, is full of bookstores: used, new, cheap and not so cheap. They stay open into the wee hours, and many well-known writers have written about them. There is one story about a man who goes from bookstore to bookstore, reading a bit of the same book in each one until he finishes the entire book, thus removing the need to actually buy it. However, there are book stores in other areas too that are worth the visit.

If you are looking for books written in English, both used and new, you can visit Walrus Books in San Telmo. Expat-owned, they have many titles with what I perceive as a focus on travel-related literature: On the Road and Dharma Bums by Kerouac, The stranger by Camus, Franny and Zooey by Sallinger, Beatniks, confusion, urban mysticism and so on… Oh, and also Bukowski. And Paul Bowles. As well as many many more.

If your Spanish is getting better, you may want to read some Argentinian authors’ works (in their original language). If so, visit Ateneo Grand Splendid, which is one of those bookstores that really create an impression upon entry. It used to be a theater, and you can experience all of its vintage magnificence while reading authors such as Alejandra Pizarnik. Carlos Gardel once played there, and if you believe in ghost stories and mysticism you will love it there.

For those interested in psychology, anthropology, and sociology, there is a specialized bookstore for you too, named Paidos. It was founded by two intellectuals (naturally), a philosopher and a master in Educational Science. The store was once a meeting place for all sorts of intellectuals and social scientists, and actually still is. Paidos has two branches, both in the Palermo area.

Clasica y Moderna is another bookstore deserving of a place in this list. It is a gathering place for bohemians, musicians, and the ones who bought Beatnik literature in Walrus books. It is not only a bookstore, but also a jazz club and a cafe. Clasica y Moderna is 70 years old, and its name has never been so appropriate. The selection of titles is very comprehensive; it was there that I bought Memorias de Adriano, by Margeritte Yourcenar, for my dad’s birthday and also a photography book by Robert Mapplethorpe for a friend.

If art is your thing, another place you might enjoy (other than museums shops, where there is always a good selection of art and photography books) is Pan Libros in the Belgrano neighbourhood. This store specializes in art, music and fanzines. Occasionally, documentary screenings are hosted, as well as short film mini festivals and other artsy goings-on.

Entelequia is a comic, manga, anime and fantasy (Tolkien, Ursula K.legin type fantasy) bookshop. Clerks with purple hair will come and assist you in finding whatever obscure comic book from the 70´s you might be looking for. They also deal in role-playing games and figurines.

There are many more little anonymous bookstores scattered around Buenos Aires, and by keeping your senses open, you are sure to stumble upon one of them.

Bonus Track

If you are in Buenos Aires and are a literature lover, there is a place you will enjoy visiting. Villa Ocampo is the former home of late Argentine writer Victoria Ocampo. The house, a magnificient English pintoresque-style mansion, was a sanctuary for the intellectuals of the last century. Borges, Virginia Woolf, Aldous Huxley, Le corbusier, Albert Camus, Gabriela Mistral are some examples of the fun crowd who would spend time at the villa. The walls at Villa Ocampo themselves tell tales (and secrets). You can also have a delicious brunch and learn about the house’s history while you eat.

Delfina

Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

Wednesday, August 3, 2011 12:39

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Concerts, Events, Festivals and Holidays, Restaurants, Bars, Cafes, Clubs - 0 Comments

I know what you are thinking.  GLBTQ community in Argentina?  It might surprise some but this Latin American, 90% Catholic, conservative country has one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world – Buenos Aires.  It has become  a top destination for gay travelers, keeping up with cities like Berlin and Rio de Janeiro.  Its popularity is greatly attributed to the incredible night life in the city, but also for the great cultural activities. 

For gay visitors to know -  you might not see a whole lot of same-sex couples walking hand in hand down the street during the day, but you will definitely find hundreds of “gay-tastic” things to do.  I wanted to go through a couple different topics that will help you be informed about gay Buenos Aires and to prepare for your trip.

Gay Marriage and Adoption

It has been one year since Argentina officially legalized same sex marriage back in July of 2010, which makes it the first of its kind in Latin American, and even other places in the world (Take that New York!).  Since then, gay people have been getting married left and right.  Along with gay marriage also came gay adoption, where couples can legally adopt a child together.  As you guess, this was a huge step forward for GLBTQ rights in Argentina.

gay marriage 300x200 Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

Important to know if you are gay and want to get married – at least one person in the couple has to be Argentine or at least have residency here.  Ricky Martin (who is from Puerto Rico) already tried to come get married to his boyfriend but unfortunately he was rejected.  Not even his star power could get around that.

Gay Events and Activities

Queer Tango

Although Argentina is the tango capital of the world, traditionally it is a very heteronormative dance where a strong male dancer leads the female dance.  In the last few years, however, gay tango (or queer tango) has become quite popular and has even started many more cities around the world.   In Buenos Aires not only can you take queer tango lessons, but there are also gay milongas (or dance halls) and even a gay tango festival.  The 5th annual queer tango festival will take place in November of this year.

 queer tango 300x199 Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

Gay Pride Parade

Every November Buenos Aires hosts an incredible Gay Pride Parade (Marcha de Orgullo Gay).  People gather at Plaza de Mayo and the march (and of course dance!) their way to the national congress building.  It is a great event to take part in and an Expanish intern wrote about it last year for an article for our blog, so check it out.

Diversa Film Festival

A GLBTQ film festival that takes place in June each year.  It has feature films and shorts from all over the world and the audience gets to vote for their favorite.

 diversa 300x175 Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

Gay Bars and Nightlife

As any Argentine can tell you, gay or straight, there is definitely no lack of bars or clubs in the city.      No matter what neighborhood you live in, you will find a whole lot to do in terms of night life, including many different types of gay and gay-friendly places.  Instead of being a full-out gay locale, many bars and clubs have gay parties on certain nights.  This is also important to point out, so make sure to show up on the correct night!  Here are just a few of your options:

Human

Av. Costanera Norte y Av. Sarmiento (Mandalay Complex)

26405 115561921804119 114907421869569 207374 2468598 n Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

One of the best gay parties in the city (only on Saturday nights).  You will find all types of people here and they have a great outdoor area, but only during the summer.  You will need (and want) to take a taxi there and back as it is off a main road that is not close to bus or subway lines.

Fiesta Plop

Federico Lacroze & Alvarez Tomas, Chacarita

Where you can go at the age of 25 and still feel like a creepy old guy? Fiest Plop.  It is a party on Fridays where lots of super young people, both men and women, go and dance the night away.  Some looks suspiciously underage, but it is great because at 3am there is always a mediocre drag performance that never disappoints.

Mohamed

Balcarce 563, San Telmo

One of the newest and swankiest bars in Buenos Aires has a gay night on Fridays, this place is located in San Telmo.   The drinks might be expensive, but you will find lots of pretty people here to look at.

Sitges

Av. Córdoba 4119, Palermo

A great bar, named after a gay town in Spain, where you will find frequent drag shows during the week.  Most important – there is an open bar on Friday nights.

Ambar

Federico Lacroze & Alvarez Tomas, Chacarita

Ambar La Fox was a famous Argentine actress in the 60´s and she fittingly has a gay party named after her.  This is just on Saturday nights and get ready for a long line to get in.  This is the same location as Fiesta Plop, just a different night.

Amerika

Gascon 1040, Palermo/Almagro

Amerika is one of the classic gay and straight-friendly clubs in the city.  It is a popular place for large groups of gay and straight friends to go to where everyone can have a fun time.  You might see one or two straight guys who go to show their female friends how progressive they are, which in my opinion is still a good thing.

300px Amerika Disco Buenos Aires Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

 

Glam

Cabrera 3046, Palermo Viejo

This is a smaller club that is popular on Thursdays.  It is a good way to start off the weekend and hopefully make it to Spanish classes the next day.

Chueca

Alsina 975, Monserrat

Lonely Planet calls this an “exclusive gay bar-restaurant”.  It is a bar that essentially turns into a night club after 2am.  Wednesday night is Chuecas Chicas for the lesbian crowd.  It also houses the first gay bookstore in Buenos Aires.

Bahrein

Lavalle 345, Downtown

A club in downtown Buenos Aires that has three different areas with different feels and music.

Bach Bar

Cabrera 4390, Palermo

This is a popular gay and lesbian bar in Palermo that has been around for 15 years.  It attracts mainly lesbians, but of course is man-friendly.  Two important things – it has karaoke and drag shows.

Axel Hotel 

Venezuela 649, San Telmo

A gay hotel in San Telmo that has pool parties on hot summer days.  It is also straight-friendly, so feel free to take advantage of the pool access even if you are not interested in meeting gay men.  I have a straight friend who would go all the time just to go swimming and she commented that she would be one of the only people using the pool since all the gays were “busy staring at each other”.

Angels

Viamonte 2168, Recoleta

This bar attracts a young gay crowd and is popular for transexuals and transvestites. 

Gay Organizations

Buenos Aires is known to be a city where its citizens are very politicized and involved in the community.  There are many gay organizations that have been around for years that do a lot of great things for the GLBTQ community Argentina, so I wanted to include a few.

CHA – Comunidad Homosexual Argentina

 CHA Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

CHA is a GLBTQ organization that was founded in 1984 and it is one of the oldest in the country.  It acts as a center that promotes human rights and health, a GLBTQ database and it provides free legal advising and mental health services, including a 24/7 helpline.

Federación LGBT

 

The Federación Argentina LGBT is actually a group of organizations that was founded in 2006.  With its network, it has quickly grown to become one of the most voiced GLBT organizations in Argentina.

Federacion LGBT Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

ATTTA – Asociación Travestis Transexuales Transgéneros de la Argentina 

The ATTTA is a national network of coordinators that strive to wipe out stigmas, discrimination and transphobia.

ATTTA Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

JAG – Judios Argentinos Gay

JAG is a group of Argentines whose goal is to integrate gays and lesbians into the Jewish community in Argentina.  They do events, seminars and activities to promote this.  They also organize dinners for all the high holidays, so if you are jewish and/or gay (or just interested in attending) feel free to contact them.

JAG Gay Culture in Buenos Aires

Gay News

Recently the Argentina Independent, an English-language newspaper, did a piece on Malva, a 90-year-old transvestite who has recently published her autobiography.  She retells her memories of breaking gender boundries in the 40s and 50s here in the city.  I recommend that you check it out here, especially for the great pictures they posted.

Chocolate in Argentina: A beginner’s guide

Tuesday, August 2, 2011 15:37

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture, Food in Buenos Aires - 0 Comments

You’re beginning to settle into life in Argentina, your body is growing acustomed to eating your own body weight in steak, you’ve mastered the art of drinking mate and you’re taste buds are just getting used to the taste of Fernet. But one thing that still puzzles a lot of visitors to Argentina is the chocolate. Why doesn’t Cadbury’s taste like it does back home? Why are the kiosko’s full of retro looking chocoloate made by a strange brand called Telfort? All these questions and more answered in today’s blog… 

I don’t eat a lot of chocolate I do need a little square a day just to get the day going and if I’m feeling really adventurous maybe another to eat just after dinner. So what is the chocolate like in Argentina? The best part is there are so many little bite size options at every kiosko that you can satisfy your sweet craving without eating a whole bar and feeling guilty.

Back in the day, when I first arrived I tried to be the loyal English girl that I am and eat Cadbury’s, that is until I actually tasted the Cadbury´s (waxy is the nicest word I can use) here and realized going without was the better option. The chocolate withdrawal started a few days later and my lovely Argentine friend tried to help me with my quest, first

cadbury milk chocolate 300x265 Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

Dos Corazones

 How sweet! Some romantic chocolate – but also a bit too waxy and the filling is far too sweet.

images1 Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

Cashba

A chocolate disc filled with dulce de leche and rum. This kept me going for a long while, they taste pretty good if you don’t mind the taste of alcohol for breakfast. But the strange rice paper shell leaves a taste of wet paper!

cabsha bocadito Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

Then the magic was found…

Marrocs

Once I tried one of these there was no going back. A smooth little square chocolate praline, which became my staple one a day chocolate, so much so that my work colleagues have chopped them and covered my last 2 birthday cakes in Marroc.

marroc Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

Then came a problem, I learned more about Ricardo Fort. A lot of the confectionary in Argentina is made by retro brand Telfort, and Telfort’s most famous grandson is Ricardo, a TV personality here. Unfortunately it seems as well as some dodgy singing he’s succumbed to some pretty heavy cosmetic surgery, and as a protest, I decided not to eat any more marrocs and fund his egomania, as my $1.20 would make such a difference (not).

Ricardo Fort1 225x300 Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

 

My morals lasted all but a few hours before I had to succumb again, although as much as I love marrocs, they can be a little too rich. So… my new favorite, and they even rival After Eights from the UK… are;

Mentitas

Mint covered dark chocolate. Perfect! Sweet, but also bitter and refreshing, my new daily chocolate leaving the marrocs to a luxury treat.

felfort mentitas menta 224x300 Chocolate in Argentina: A beginners guide

So there you have it. The history of my chocolate eating in Buenos Aires so far. If you have any recommendations please let me know.

Joanne

Argentina’s football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

Friday, July 29, 2011 14:51

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Primera División 300x242 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

La Nueva Temporada

August is almost upon us and with it fútbol, and the start of the Primera División in Argentina. The first round of fixtures kicks off on the 5th, a date eagerly anticipated by millions of Argentines. What’s more, the new season brings with it the perfect distraction from the less-than-brilliant Copa America performance of the national team (who were knocked out by eventual winners – and neighbours – Uruguay).

The Primera División, which will last until May 2012, apocalypse permitting, is split into two tournaments: the Apertura and the Clausura (the opening half and the closing half). It is therefore one of the only leagues in which two teams can be crowned champions within one season. The division consists of 20 teams, of which 3 teams are relegated each year.  The big news last season was the relegation of 33-time champions River Plate, for the first time in their history, to the second division. At this point I could venture into the system of 3 year averages that defines who is relegated, but I won’t.

Rivales

River’s relegation unfortunately means that there will be no Superclásico this year, with Boca fans now at a loss: “Yeah sure, I’m glad they went down, but now how am I meant to channel my aggression?” very few Boca fans have been overheard grumbling. Furthermore, there will be fewer teams from Buenos Aires than there have been for years. In fact, with intense rivalries being few and far between this year, we’ll have to rely on fixtures such as Racing Vs Independiente to provide some drama (I was recently told that Racing fans were the most “chiflado” of them all – they’re all nuts, basically – so this may come to fruition sooner rather than later).

racing club 300x200 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

The Reigning Champions

Vélez Campeones 150x150 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

Vèlez Sàrsfield - Campeones de la Clausura 2011

Last year’s Clausura champions, Vélez Sársfield, are all set to defend their crown this season, and with River Plate splashing about aimlessly downstream they might have a good chance of doing so. Mexican veteran Guillermo Franco signed for Vélez last January, and the 34-year-old striker’s goals could aid Velez’ title challenge. Maximiliano Morales could prove even more influential. Whilst he is the smallest player in the league (a wee 160cm), the little guy is a favourite amongst fans for his short passing.

Estudiantes Copa de Campeón 2010 150x150 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

Estudiantes - Campeones De la Apertura 2010

As for 2010’s Apertura champions, Estudiantes, the performances of key players such as Paraguay no.1 Justo Villar and the legendary – and forever balding – Juan Sebastian Verón – will be vital to their success. One thing’s for sure though, if manager Miguel Angél Russo and the “students” aim to end the season with a trophy, they’d better do their homework.

Xeneizes

All this information is well and good, but here at Expanish we are inclined to support our local kids team Boca Juniors. Last year was disappointing in more ways than one. Firstly, Boca finished the two tournaments in 12th and 7th respectively. Secondly, and much more upsettingly, Boca lost the talents of Martín Palermo to old age. “El Titán”, as he was respectfully known, is Boca’s all-time leading scorer with 236 goals, and his retirement at the end of last season was an emotional time for all concerned. He will be missed. However, all is not bad in La Boca. Argentine Forward Lucas Viatri is to be the attacking focal point of the team this year following Palermo’s departure, with many inside the team confident of his ability. New additions to the squad include Darìo Cvitanich, the Argentine-born Croatian striker hoping to fill the supporting role behind Viatri. Additionally, Juan Román Riquelme is still going strong, or at least can still move at a gentle jog. Even at 33, the playmaker still has the ability to be a match-winner. However he could probably do with a diet.

Palermo11 300x200 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

Adios, Martín...

gracias1 300x168 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

...Y Gracias

Players to watch this year:

Leandro Romagnoli 150x150 Argentinas football league: A guide to the 2011/12 season

Leandro Romagnoli (MF) – San Lorenzo

Lucas Viatri (ST) – Boca Juniors

Darío Cvitanich (ST) – Boca Juniors

Maximiliano Morales (MF) – Vélez Sársfield

Ezequiel Carboni (MF) – Banfield

Mauro Cameronesi (MF) – Lanús

Title contenders:

Vélez Sársfield, Racing, Boca Juniors, Independiente, Estudiantes

An outside chance:

San Lorenzo, Banfield, Lanús

Relegation scrappers:

Atlético Rafaela, San Martín San Juan, Colón, All Boys, Unión Santa Fe

Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

Wednesday, July 13, 2011 15:48

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Winter is well and truly upon us in Buenos Aires, and Expanish Spanish School Blog is struggling to come to terms with the dark nights, chilly days and inability to use the city’s numerous restaurant roof terraces and outdoor spaces. So we’ve come up with our top 10 tips for surviving winter in Buenos Aires.  

1)      Dress in layers

The Argentine winter can appear to the uninitiated, as a compilation of three seasons played out over the course of two months. Anyone who’s been in Buenos Aires over the past three weeks will have noticed the quick transition from arctic winds in late June, to spring-like afternoons in early July. Dressing in layers will allow you to add or remove clothing to suit the temperature. Plus, apparently layering is very ‘de moda’ this season.

ba under snow iiii 201x300 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

2)      Eat Locro

Disregard the steak, salad and picadas, locro is the dish to eat this winter. A warm, stew type dish, that tends to incorporate the following ingredients: Corn, carne (of course), and vegetables and lots of stock. Perfect fuel for cold evenings and dark nights.

 locro 211 300x225 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

If you want to have a go at cooking it yourself try this locro recipe

 

3)      Celebrate Christmas

A new and at first appearance, slightly odd custom has begun to appear amongst expat circles in the southern hemisphere. Christmas in August. Those of you who are from the northern hemisphere and used to cold, miserable winters being interspersed with the color, presents, food and general fun times that Christmas brings in December, will appreciate the need for something to cheer up the winter months, so make like its December and celebrate a feliz navidad!

 charlie brown christmas 300x225 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

4)      Enjoy the World Tango festival

One of the biggest festivals to take place in Buenos Aires, the annual Tango Festival y Mundial brings the world’s best tango dancers to Buenos Aires for a series of spectacular tango shows, concerts and parties that take place all over the city from 16th August through to the 30th August. If you want to try out your own tango dancing skills, the festival includes seminars, workshops and milongas.

 tango festival 682498c 300x166 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

5)      Go to the theatre

A great way to practice your Spanish and escape from the cold. Buenos Aires’ main theatre district is around Avenida Corrientes, stretching from Microcentro across 9 de Julio towards Recoletta. There are a number of well known musicals showing on Corrientes at present including When Harry met Sally (Cuando Harry conoció a Sally) or The Sound of Music (La Novicia Rebelde) and but if you want to really stretch the cultural boundaries, try going to a revista, an incredibly kitsch form of Argentine variety show.

 CUANDO HARRY CONOCIO A SALLY 300x225 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

6)      Enjoy a drink in the pub next to a blazing fire

This one will be best enjoyed by travelers and expats from the U.K and Ireland who may well be missing their regular visit to the local pub, where more often or not you can find a cosy spot by the fire to enjoy a drink and some hearty pub food. Expanish blog has uncovered one such spot in Buenos Aires.. The Bangalore pub in Palermo (any more suggestions welcome!).

 bar fireplace Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

7)      Watch the Copa America

Continuing our footballing theme, you can’t have failed to notice that the Copa America is currently taking place in Argentina. A great way to while away the evenings and weekends is in front of the TV, cheering on the Argentines! For more on the tournament, visit our Guide to Copa America

8)      Get Fit

In preparation for the lovely long summer that is approaching (only a few months), why not spend the winter months shaping up ready for the beach. Porteños are a body conscious bunch, hence there is a fantastic range of fitness opportunities all around the city, from Boot Camp Buenos Aires through to Pilates.

9)      Drink a submarino

Take a break from mate and try a submarino.  A great way to enjoy hot chocolate. A submarine-shaped, (if you’re lucky, sometimes they come in a very standard chocolate bar shape) piece of chocolate that you submerge in hot milk to create a delicious hot chocolaty drink. Available in most Buenos Aires cafés.

 79120 Buenos 300x225 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

10)    Build a house

It might not get you warm but it will warm your heart. The South American charity Un Techo para mi Pais, is looking for volunteers to take part in one of the biggest constructions in their history from 22nd July to 31st July. Sign up to join thousands of other volunteers in building houses for disadvantaged families. Expanish Blog was lucky enough to be involved in the last construction at the end of June and highly recommends the experience! Note: the forthcoming build will take place outside of Buenos Aires

logo un techo 300x134 Top ten ways to survive winter in Buenos Aires

Women’s football in Argentina… “¿Pero cómo que jugás fútbol? ¡Sos mujer!”

Wednesday, July 6, 2011 15:56

Categories - Argentine Customs and Culture - 0 Comments

Today, Expanish Blog continues the football theme, in celebration of the Copa America currently taking place in Argentina, and we ask one of our Expanish Spanish School bloggers to tell us all about playing football in Argentina…. as ‘shock horror’ a female.  

When I was little, my mom used to sign up me and my twin sister up for everything possible – tap dancing, art classes, sports teams, you name it. (She claims it was so we could properly explore our interests, but I have a feeling it was more personally motivated to to get us out of the house). It was thus at age 5, amidst the plethora of activities I was involved in, that I discovered my love for soccer. While the tap dancing, art classes, and other sports teams withered over the years, soccer was something that continued to stick with me. It has formed the core of my identity and has shaped me in my ways that would have not been possible if it weren’t for soccer. I never questioned the opportunities that were afforded to me to play – it was always just something that was a matter of if and when I wanted to do it.

futbolfeminino1 300x244 Womens football in Argentina... “¿Pero cómo que jugás fútbol? ¡Sos mujer!”

However, my time in Argentina has also made me see soccer as a manifestation of cultural differences. Argentina is a country where soccer is so highly regarded it resembles almost more of a religion than a sport. Yet despite the sport’s popularity, there remains a lack of fútbol feminino, or female soccer. For someone who has played soccer for over 18 years, I have to admit it is something I still have yet to fully get used to.

In college, all of the intramural soccer teams I played on were co-ed teams, and additionally, if I ever wanted to join an all-male pick-up game, I could join in without hesitation. On the other hand, in Argentina it is practically unfathomable for a girl to play soccer with the boys. In many parts of Latin America, soccer is still seen as “a man’s sport,” and thus, not something that falls under the proper female gender description. In fact, I’ve had men here tell me, with all sincerity and with the intention of saying it as a compliment, about how amazed they are that “I could play soccer and still maintain a sense of femininity.” Say what?

 soccer net 237x300 Womens football in Argentina... “¿Pero cómo que jugás fútbol? ¡Sos mujer!”

Fortunately, my over the top, feisty diva mother has created a monster, and when attempting to join in on a soccer game here, I don’t take no for an answer. Ya sé jugar, I pre-emptively and arrogantly defend myself. “Dejáme mostrarselo.” (I already know how to play. Let me prove it to you). A little obnoxious, but hey, it does the trick! Once I am allowed to play with the guys, I have had an overwhelmingly positive experience. The guys I have played with are overall very open-minded and upon playing with them have taken me seriously as a soccer player, it’s just have not come into a lot of contact with competitive female soccer.

While males continue to comprise the majority of soccer players here, fútbol feminino is on the rise. Female soccer is starting to become more acceptable, and leagues created for just girls, especially in the past few years, have been growing at lightning speed. I myself am a part of a couple of fútbol feminino leagues here, and while I have to admit it’s not exactly the level of play I am used to in the U.S., it’s incredibly refreshing and inspiring to see new spaces and opportunities open up for female soccer players here.

 soccerball 300x199 Womens football in Argentina... “¿Pero cómo que jugás fútbol? ¡Sos mujer!”

There are also other exciting developments in the realm of fútbol feminino. San Telmo Productions, an Argentine film company, is currently shooting Goals for Girls, about a female soccer team in Villa 31, a slum in Buenos Aires. The short has already garnered worldwide attention, and is currently being turned into a feature documentary. It has already been showcased in more than 15 international film festivals. You can find a link for the trailer here

Other exciting developments include the Buenos Aires Cup, the first international youth soccer tournament in Argentina, which will be taking place this month. The tournament was started by Anna Renery, a California native who founded this tournament in part to showcase in Argentina fútbol feminino on an international stage.

My experience playing soccer in Argentina has opened my eyes to the cultural differences of gender roles, and has made me even more passionate about a sport I already loved. Fútbol feminino is starting to carve out a place for itself in Argentina, and the question remains not if soccer will became a popular female sport here, but when.

Jenn

P.S. For those Expanish students interested in playing soccer, check out Expanish’s own weekly soccer league! All levels (and genders!) welcome icon smile Womens football in Argentina... “¿Pero cómo que jugás fútbol? ¡Sos mujer!”