As a foreigner grappling to come to terms with even the most basic of Spanish, it is almost inconceivable to entertain the comprehension of Argentine humour and wit in day to day dialogue. This blog will therefore not seek to offer guidance on how to translate jokes and interpret humour but rather takes a look at the cultural implications.

comedy masks

Argentine people are generally good looking and well groomed individuals. More often than not the sun is out, aviators are on and the cool strut is well and truly in motion down the street. Indeed if you have ever walked down a typical Buenos Aires high street you would be forgiven for thinking it a cat walk. It appears everyone is buying into this vanity stricken culture.  All too often I impulse buy a chocolate bar at many a kiosko and subsequently tear into it as I negotiate the street. Just of late it has dawned on me that I am most definitely the only punk eating or drinking in the street. It just simply is not done here. Not a good look….

Blue steel

My point is that the strong image culture does not provide for self -deprecation. People generally have an inflated opinion about themselves and by self deprecating it would go against everything they stand for. So people generally do not make fun of themselves and other people who they maybe close to. Coming from England I find this quite a change and one that, on occasions, annoys me. Sometimes I’m wanting to get somewhere but am constantly held up by hipster after hipster checking themselves out and walking five abreast along an already congested high street. Other times I may just feel like death and quite frankly have no desire to join the vanity race. However more often than not I just miss the friendly banter between good friends. The wit and dry humor is enchanting and engrossing.

Friendly pub banter

The Argentine’s have also experienced historical hardships through Military dictatorships, economic collapses, insecurities of identity, political corruption and devastation and a strong religious order. Arguably this all has led to a lack of self deprecation. However I firmly believe it is important to cross these boundaries to cure previous wounds. Comedy is a great vehicle to do it.

So as a result you will find that Argentine humour is found not so much in the under belly of society but rather on screen, in stand ups, comics and literary works. The comedy is based towards political figures, celebrities and surreal humor.

TV comedy

Television: Classic Argentine shows include Cha Cha Cha, Todo por dos pesos, Caiga Quien Caiga commonly referred to as CQC, El Show de Videomatch, etc.

Comic Books / Strips: Quino’s Mafalda  is one of the internationally best-known Argentine comic strips and comic-book series. Its humour is related to local and international politics.

Comic Book

Literary Humor;  can be found in the works of some of Argentina’s best-known writers. For example, Jorge Luis Borges was known for his dry, sometimes dark, humor. He begins his story “The Dread Redeemer Lazarus Morrell” by describing  Bartolome de las Casas as having taken pity on the natives suffering and dying in the mines of the  Antilles thereby leading the Spanish government to relieve their suffering by importing African slaves to suffer and die in the mines of the Antilles.

Theatre and Stand-up comedy; Numerous comedy theatre actors earned renown among Argentine audiences over the years, including Florencio Parravicini, Jose Marrone, Pepe Biondi and Nini Marshall.

Florencio Parravicini

 

Probably the first thing to highlight on this subject is the total lack of proper running shoes available in the shops of Buenos Aires. Speaking from experience I recall traipsing around the capital for several days in a vain attempt to purchase a suitable pair of running shoes. Since then I have been to the U.K and returned with some asics.

If you enjoy running it is advisable to be filmed on a treadmill by a specialist. This can be normally done in a specialist running shop or a competent gym. From this you will be given a suitable pair of running shoes that is in accordance to your running style.  It’s also a good idea to buy a few pairs of running socks to ensure maximum strength and comfort. However it is impossible to do this in Buenos Aires. So if you wish to run regularly and comfortably around BA, then buy your running shoes prior to arriving. Failing that try to convince a friend or a friend of a friend to bring the trainers with them.

Real running shoes

You can off course run in standard trainers and these can be very readily purchased in every BA high Street. You can also find the odd running trainer but from my experience the shop assistants were clueless to the varying running styles. Essentially a roll of the dice for an expensive pair of Nike or Adidas running shoes.  Regardless of what running shoes you may or may not have, it is advisable to warm up but more importantly to warm down. Good leg stretches will always help recovery and especially if you are running without proper running shoes.

So whether you are running with or without the proper running shoes, here is a few running routes for you;

(1)    Parque Ecolgica – Puerto Madero

This is by far the best place to run in Buenos Aires. It has several interesting routes with the circumference stretching 10km. It is blessed with an amazing array of bird life, next to the river, tranquil, has clean air and is relatively uncongested for running.

If you life in Puerto Madero then it is perfectly located. Indeed it is accessible on foot from San Telmo, Monserat, Centro,  Retiro and I guess parts of Recoleta. It is possible to run to the park thus reducing your time or indeed you could grab a quick bus. In my mind it is well worth the effort as it is unique to Buenos Aires and far superior to any other running routes in the Capital.

The Park is accessible from two entrances; The first is next to the attractive small roundabout where Av. Espana meets Av. Dr Tristan Achaval Rodriguez . The second entrance is on the same road but at the other end of the park. So at the end of Av. Int Hernan M. Girlt. The Park is open from 8am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday. I believe it is open for an extra hour per day during the summer months.

Reserva Ecologica

(2)    The Two lakes – Palermo

I am referring to Palermo lake which you can find as lago de regatas and Rosedal

Rosedal Lake

lake around plaza Holanda. The former lake is accessible from parts of Belgrano and parts of Colegiales. The latter lake is accessible from parts of Palermo.  Both lakes are stunning and provide for a very pleasant run.

Just running around one lake is probably insufficient depending on how much booze and late nights have preceded your run. Running around the same lake more than once is a possibility but quite frankly it gets boring. So, assuming you are game, then incorporate both lakes in your run.

To do this you need to run behind the horse racing track and cross the padded bridge before linking up with the other lake. Once you have run the route once it will become very clear.

Palermo Lake

It probably goes without saying that this run is best done in the morning, afternoon or early evening. In the evening the tranvestites come out to play behind the horse track…. If this puts you off running the route in the morning, afternoon or early evening, then it should not. There are no signs of the tranvestites and it really is a decent run.

(3)    Recoleta

Unfortunately I have not had the pleasure of running round the parks of Recoleta. So this suggestion is taken from map my run.

http://www.mapmyrun.com/ar/retiro-buenos-aires-f-d/buenos-aires-recoleta-route-920581

Clearly if you do not want to run the full distance of any of the routes then simply adjust the course to your liking. Even if you just fancy a walk then the suggested routes will be of use.

I think we all agree that BA is a congested city with plenty of pollution. Getting some fresh air and a bit of exercise does wonders for your continual vigor for this great city.

Monday 3^rd June

Venue: Ciudad Cultural Konex, Sarmiento 3131

Artist: La Bomba de Tiempo

Time: from 19:00hs

http://www.ciudadculturalkonex.org/?page=inicio&subpage=evento&item=31_la_bomba_de_tiempo

La Bomba de Tiempo

Tuesday 4^th June

Venue: Café Vinilo, Gorriti 3780

Artist: La Impertinente Señorita Orquesta

Time: 21:00hs

Entrance: $50

http://www.cafevinilo.com.ar/#

Live Music

Wednesday 5^th June

Venue: Thelonious Club, Salguero 1884

Artist: various jazz artists

Time: from 21:00hs

www.thelonious.com.ar

Venue: Teatro Gran Rex, av. Corrientes 857

Artist: Esperanza Spalding

Time: From 21:00 hrs

http://teatro-granrex.com.ar/

Venue: Virasoro Bar, Guatemala 4328

Artist: Javi Martinez

Mariano Agustoni (piano) – Sebastian Valsechi (guitarra)- Victor Carrion (saxo soprano y flauta)- Javier Martinez (batería).

Time: 21:30hs

Price: $50

http://www.virasorobar.com.ar/eventos.php

Jazzy

Thursday 6^th June

 Venue: Ultra, San Martin 678

Artist: False Prophets

Time: 21.00 pm

Web: ultrapop-ar.blogspot.com

Venue: Club Atlético Fernández Fierro, Sánchez de Bustamante 764

Artist: Arbolito

Time: 22:00hs

http://www.caff.com.ar/

Venue: La Trastienda, Balcarce 460

Artist:  Nonpalidece

Time: 23:30hs

http://www.latrastienda.com/shows/buscar/?qs=james+cotton

Live Music

Friday 7^th June

Venue: Liverpool Bar, Arévalo 1376, Palermo

Artist: Billy Shears

Time: 21.00 hrs

Web: www.facebook.com/pages/Liverpool-bar-palermo/231717906936919

Venue: Groove

Artist: Lagwagon (American punk band)

Time: 19:00 hrs

Mail: info@palermogroove.com

Web: www.palermogroove.com.ar

www.facebook.com / palermogroove

Venue: Club Niceto, Av Cnel. Niceto Vega 5510

Artist: Proyecto Esencial

Time: 21:00hs

Price: $40

http://www.nicetoclub.com/showlocal/2649/202_-_proyecto_esencial_-_chevette_(lado_b)

Venue: Salon Pueyrredón, av. Santa Fe 4560

Artists: The Space Patrol - Kings Of Falsetto - Malta

Time: 00:00 pm

Mail: info@salonpueyrredon.com.ar

Web: www.salonpueyrredon.com.ar

www.facebook.com / ccsalonpueyrredon

Live Music

Saturday 8th June

Venue: Club Cultural Matienzo, Matienzo 2424

Artist: SPACE JAM: CÉSAR FRANOV, PEDRO BULGAKOV, PABLO SUAREZ
@ CUMBIA 8 BIT: LOS PAT MORITAS!!
@ DJ´S: A.D.M. (ADAM) + NAKATOMI PLAZA
@ VJ Tony Rhonda (Agus Jais)

Time: 23:00hs

http://clubculturalmatienzo.blogspot.com.ar/2009/10/los-proximos-imperdibles.html

Live Music

Sunday 9th June

Venue: La Trastienda, Balcarce 460

Artist: Roma 

Time: 21:00hs

http://www.latrastienda.com/shows/show/778.roma.html

We really hope you enjoy these gigs guys and please if you go, feel free to leave a comment about it below. Thanks!

Wherever one travels in the world, there is always good beer and there is always bad beer. It can often take a while to discover which particular brand is better, or which bar has a certain tasty beer on tap. This is largely down to the fact that there are always a few monopolizing companies, who fill the supermarket shelves with their beer and stock almost every bar in town. These are usually bland and uninteresting to any real beer lover, as is the case in Argentina.

Whilst there is an ever increasing number of artisan brews available, the best place to discover these, where one can be guaranteed to be offered a flavorsome ale, is in a microbrewery. Over the last decade, bars which brew their own beer have been growing in number in Buenos Aires, now providing drinkers with plenty of options to find what they are looking for. A strange effect of the growing popularity is that the high demand for their beer means that it becomes difficult to brew enough in the same place, due to limited space. For that reason, many have had to move production to an alternative location, although the bar remains the only place available to drink the produce.

The following five microbreweries offer a variety of flavors, atmospheres, clientèle, production methods, ages and service, but it is assured that all serve a lovingly made beer.

 Matias Kovelt from Cossab

1. Cossab, Boedo

Cossab has been around for a number of years, although once inside, it feels much older. One of the stalwarts of the microbrewery scene in Buenos Aires, this bar has recently moved production to Villa Soldati, nearby in the south of the city, because the small premises had become crowded. As a result of this change, there is now a large kitchen providing a variety of healthily sized meals and snacks.

Dimly lit and with an atmosphere very hard to attain outside of Buenos Aires, this bar breathes beer. The barmen rotate duties when it comes to producing the beer, which they estimate to be at 2,000 litres per month. They produce six different types of beer, including lagers, ales and stouts. Being in a slightly more obscure part of town, the place is generally filled with locals, although the owners welcome everyone with a smile. In three months the owners will be opening a new bar in Villa Urquiza, but it will be hard to beat Cossab’s atmosphere.

Cossab

 2. Breoghan, San Telmo

Breoghan offers more than the standard bars of San Telmo. It was founded by two brothers who started out brewing beer at home. Urged by friends, who later became investors, they decided not only to sell their beer, but to do so in their very own pub.

A thoroughly decent pub with decent beer, food, service. decor and atmosphere. Well worth a visit.

Breoghan

3. Antares, Palermo

Antares beer is available in various bars around the country, but the company itself has a bar in the middle of Palermo. From the outside nothing much is to be expected, but upon opening the door one enters into a large room, with a very high ceiling and walls lined with posters, photos and bottles. While being more sophisticated in style and service, the bar remains very friendly and provides a wide variety of beers from the Antares line. The beer comes pouring out of kegs which appear to be 10ft tall, but which are actually much smaller, hiding underneath the gleaming barrels that are on display.

The bar offers a tray with samples of each of their beers, which is a valuable starting point for those who may be slightly unsure about what is available. There are seven brews by Antares, although there are various other seasonal varieties depending on the time of year. They try to create flavors similar to popular European brands, as opposed to seeking their own unique concoctions, but this is one of the better places to drink beer in Palermo.

Antares Beers

 4. Buller, Recoleta

The first microbrewery in Buenos Aires, this institution has been open for more than a decade and is one of the few that genuinely brews its beer on site. As one walks into the establishment it is impossible to miss the towering machinery in which the beer is fermenting its way into the pint glasses lining the bar. A mass of golden metal cauldrons, pipes and funnels provide an intriguing glimpse into the beer-making process.

The pub is family run and proud of its heritage. The machines were imported from America and do not exist anywhere else in Argentina, although this leads to slightly higher prices. Nestled amongst the aristocratic cafés and restaurants of Recoleta and separated from the famous cemetery only by an overly-sized tree, this bar is a must for any brewing enthusiast.

Buller Recolleta

5. Cruzat, San Nicolas

Cruzat offers more beers than any other bar in Argentina – in excess of 150! There are imported beers as well as the huge variety of artisan beers from all over the country. Situated in the middle of a block in a peaceful area filled with bars, restaurants and the Beatles museum, this is an ideal place to come for experimenting the beers of Argentina.

With a large patio outside and sofas inside, there is ample comfy seating. A decent food menu begs to be looked at, although most of the time will be spent deciding which beer will be drunk. Having been around for five years, Cruzat is growing in popularity, but it maintains reasonable prices.

Cruzat – San Nicolas

Having sampled a few local beers in Buenos Aires I can give the following advice. Take it easy. The beers are strong….

Upon coming to Buenos Aires for the first time two years ago, I distinctly remember being influenced by two remarkable things from this amazing city. I decided to come back to live for a while so I could carry out these desires over an extensive amount of time, which has consequently resulted in the most memorable time of my life. The first thing was to really get a good level of Spanish under my belt so I could keep speaking it even after returning home, and the second was to find an awesome tango teacher to learn some great moves from and within that, to learn about a little about the dance’s history.

Tango in Buenos Aires

The presence of Tango emerged during the 1870s when a migration of approximately 6 million people, primarily from Europe, came to Argentina with a large percentage choosing Buenos Aires to start their new life. This lead to an era of great and rapid change for Buenos Aires as the city quickly became a cultural melting pot. People who moved to Buenos Aires arrived at the port, known as ¨La Boca¨, where many settled and found work and is why people from Buenos Aires have through history, being referred to as ¨porteños¨ (from the word port). In this Argentine port town, the Tango music was born and today, Tango is the only musical expression strongly related to the social history of porteños. In reality, tango is the cultural expression of the Rio de La Plata region which also includes the area from Rosario to Montevideo in Uruguay.

Region of Rio de La Plata

During this era and continuing on into the 20th century, a great deal of Argentines from the countryside also moved to Buenos Aires for greater opportunities in the economically-growing capital. Much of the countryside population had a great deal of African influence from the days of slave trade and therefore had a lot to offer in terms of music tradition and skill. Both the country people and European immigrants brought with them their music, musical instruments and dances. Afro-Argentinean steps and rhythms like the milonga started to mix with European music and choreography and what resulted over years was the Tango dance that for many years would keep evolving.

Tango couple

From this time on, leading figures of Tango (who are still extremely adored today) included the singer and songwriter Carlos Gardel and composers/performers like Francisco Canaro, Juan D’Arienzo, Osvaldo Pugliese, and Ástor Piazzolla.

Carlos Gardel

Astor Piazzolla

Between 1935 and 1952 was considered the Golden Era of Argentine Tango. Musicians developed better orchestras and cultivated poets joined the tango movement and lyrics became more elaborate. This was considered a sort of evolution, with its many changes and rich processes.

There are many different styles of Tango danced these days. To simplify, the two principal styles are Tango Para Export and Social Tango. Tango Para Export (or Tango Para Turistas), is what you see in the tango dinner shows and on the streets of Florida and San Telmo. It’s stage dancing by young people in slit skirts and fedoras, characterized by choreographed lifts, jumps, acrobatics, and extreme poses. Music by Piazzolla is the standard for tango shows.

Tango show

The social tango is danced by the locals in the social dance halls, the milongas, of which there are more than 70 every week spread all over the city. Tango de salon, or tango milonguero (social tango) is characterized by improvisation, a very close embrace, musicality, small steps, connection, and elegance. Music of the 40s and 50s is usually played and really sets the scene for an old-worldly atmosphere. It’s fascinating to see a milonga in action, and a must-do experience for any visitor interested in tango, or the tango culture.

A milonga

Despite there being many more varieties of Tango dance, dancing appropriately to the emotion and speed of any tango music is extremely important. A good dancer is one who transmits a feeling of the music to the partner, leading them effectively throughout the dance. Also, dancers generally keep their feet close to the floor as they walk, the ankles and knees brushing as one leg passes the other.

Various dance positions

The past two weeks saw the Buenos Aires Tango Championship where over half a million people participated and attended the rounds in different “milongas”, theaters, and cultural centers across the city.  It was the celebration of a music and culture that is regarded as a hallmark of Buenos Aires around the world.

Shot from the Championship

If you are interested in learning to dance tango while in Buenos Aires, there are many ways to go about it. Fortunately, the majority of milongas (tango dance halls) which I will mention shortly also provide dance lessons for beginners before the locals start dancing around 11pm.

• Salon Canning    http://www.visittangobuenosaires.com/Salon_Canning-sp.htm
• La Viruta              http://www.lavirutatango.com/
• Confiteria Ideal   http://www.confiteriaideal.com/milongas.php
• La Maldita            http://www.timeout.com/buenos-aires/dance/venue/1%3A24966/la-maldita-milonga
• La Nacional          http://www.lanacionaltango.com/#!milongas-*

Additionally to learning in a milonga, Expanish Spanish School offers free or low-cost private and group weekly dance classes and also group outings to milongas and shows.

Tango at Expanish

Thirdly, the way that benefited me most are private lessons which let me dance at my own pace. There are numerous dance teachers in this city who all have their own individual style and different levels of tango instructing. I chose Cristian Castaño of Tango Piola, an incredible dancer and great instructor who got me to a level I am very happy with. Visit the website at http://www.tangopiola.com or Cristian through tangopiola@gmail.com.

Cristian from Tango Piola

Enjoy your Tango experience in Buenos Aires!